Lederhosen & Dirndl
While Oktoberfest costume for many, for Bavarians, Tracht or Lederhosen & Dirndl represent a deep cultural tradition, with the elements showing a strong sense of pride, regional identity, and family. Here is a quick overview including some sources to buy. This is not intended as an exhaustive guide, but enough to introduce basic ideas and concepts.
Tracht 101
Tracht comes from the verb trachten, which means "to carry" - because the Tracht carries a meaning. It comprises several pieces, based on gender, and comes in several forms. Once you know these variations, you can quickly tell where someone comes from or how they identify.
Formal or High Tracht - is the most "uniform-like" type of Tracht and has the most elements. Worn at formal gatherings (weddings, church, etc), parades, or cultural events. This is the "Sunday Best" of Tracht and many pieces have been handed down generation to generation.
Half-Tracht (Halb-Tracht) - is based on Formal Tracht. This is the "Business Casual" type of Tracht, and maintains many of the same elements at Formal Tracht, but usually relaxes the rules considerably.
Fest Tracht / Informal Tracht - is the most basic version worn for comfort and "festing" and comprises the fewest elements, with more of a focus on personal expression. This is the form of Tracht most Americans know.
Men
Lederhosen
Kurzhosen (shorts) | Bundhosen (Over-the-Knee) | Full Length
Lederhosen simply means, leather pants, and comes in 3 lengths:
Some common terms:
Träger/Hosenträger - Suspenders
Steg - Ornate leather piece that runs across the chest between the suspenders
Latz - Button up flap in the front
Gürtel - Belt with metal buckle
Bundhosen - Knee-Length
Bundhosen are worn to formal events, and are standard except in summer. They can be worn at less formal events (Fests, etc), but usually the full-length socks are worn loose at the top of the shoe. They are worn with the träger or gürtel.
Lederhosen - Short-Length
Kurz Lederhosen is most common and is for summer time or informal events, like Fests and less formal gatherings. They can be worn with träger or gürtel, or sometimes neither.
Lederhosen - Full-Length
This style is most common at work type events and part of a matching "suit," Trachtenanzug. They are worn with a belt, but not suspenders.
Tracht Shirt
Formal - solid colored (often white); sleeves rolled down.
Tie or neck ornament is worn.
Informal - solid colored, white, or checkered (white/blue - white/green - etc).
The shirt can also be embroidered.
Ties are generally not worn, and sleeves are often rolled up to above the elbow.
Tracht Vest | Tracht Jacket | Tracht Hat
Formal - vest is required and region-specific.
Informal - vest is optional and a personal choice.
Charivari | Trachtenmesser | Schmuck
Formal - Charivari, personal adornment items are highly prescribed and specific.
Informal - personal choice.
Charivari - Chain across the latz that holds various charms and coins. Often passed down from generations. They generally represent accomplishments - special stones, work achievements, and things that they have killed. It is essentially "Bavarian Bling" and a massive personal ad board.
Trachtenmesser - Mid-handled short knife that is worn in the embroidered/sewn pocket on the right thigh.
Trachten Socks
Full vs Loferl (1/2 socks)
Formal - full-length/region-specific socks are required. Some groups, like dancers, etc, allow for Loferl, but usually only the upper section is worn.
Informal - personal choice.
TIP: A sign of Tracht novice status is to wear Loferl, but wear the "foot sock" too.
Trachten Shoes
Formal - specific shoes or boots are required.
Informal - personal choice, and even basic hiking boots or black or brown sneakers can be seen...be comfortable.
TIP: Avoid the the velour or "velvet" versions with big buttons or the "Peter Pan-look," it is considered culturally offensive.
Women
How to wear a Dirndl - 12 Easy Steps
Blouse | Special Bra
"Puffy" blouse with a low-cut, which requires a special bra to be worn.
The blouse generally has short sleeves. Long-sleeve versions are often available where the sleeves are tied to existing short sleeves.
Bodice (Meider)
Heavy cotton bodice, often with hemmed ribs, is worn over the blouse and secured with ribbons or chains on the front panel. It is usually long-sleeved.
Tracht Skirt (Rock)
Full-Length | Over Knee-Length
Formal - Full-length skirt and an apron are required.
Informal - Over knee-length with an apron is allowed.
Mützen | Schmuck
Formal - Mützen (coins) on chains are worn. Traditionally, these represent the amount of the woman's dowry. Additionally, flowers can be tucked into the bodice and a shawl at the shoulders.
Informal - Fewer Mützen and also ribbons and other personal adornment.
Apron Bow - It has a meaning
Be sure to pick the correct bow position.
Left-side -
Right-side -
Back-center -
Front-center -
Trachten Socks | Full vs 1/2 socks
Formal - White silk stockings are worn over the knee.
Informal - Colored stockings can be worn.
Trachten Shoes
Flats or low heels are the standard.
Lederhosen for Women
While not traditional, they are being seen more, but are lower cut than those worn by men.
TIP: Avoid the "barmaid" or "bar wench" type Dirndls, they are pretty much considered culturally offensive.
Where to Buy Tracht
This is not an exhaustive list, but it breaks things down according to:
Reasonable Price | Speed to Ship | Easiness of Returns
We are going to focus on the last 2 due to lack of proximity to Bavaria.
Tracht generally has 3 sources:
• Small Family-Owned Tracht Makers - Bavaria
• Online Retailer (Import/Export) - Bavaria | Pakistan | China
• Second-Hand - eBay | Used Clothing Stores
Amazon Retailers
Speed to You | Easy Returns | Equitable Prices
Online Retailer
Speed to You | Semi-Easy Returns | Descent Prices
Amazon.de can be a challenge. You might look for item there, then see if can from Amazon.com.
Second Hand Online
Speed to You Varies | May not Ship to You | Likely No Returns | Sizes can vary | Sometimes Really Unique
eBay can be a great source for Tracht.
Requires patience and discretion.
Ask for measured sizing, etc.
Many German eBayers need "convincing" to US ship.
TIPS:
Since some online items are made in Pakistan and China, sizing can be challenging. Best to order your "ideal" size and then a size up and a size down. This is why ease of returns is critical when using an Online Retailer.
In Bavarian, you are actually fitted, which has its own challenges if your size changes.
Tracht Expressions you may see
"Treu der Sitt - Treu der Tracht - Treu der Heimat" (True to custom - True to costume - True to home/heritage)
"Mia zam" or "#MIAZAM" (Bavarian dialect for "We together")
"Treu dem guten alten Brauch!" which translates to "True to the good old traditions!